( WOOD DOUBLE HUNG )
Series 10UP and Series 10X
The following instructions are to be used as a guide and should be read completely before any cutting is done.
It should be noted that each window sash will need different handling depending on how the sash was made and how it has warped or shrunk since that time. If there is too much side play, packing material must be placed behind the side metal to bring the sash into snug contact with the corrugations of the strip.
If either sash is warped or bowed away from the parting bead, take note because a rabbet plane should be used to straighten the warped sides so they run true to the parting bead throughout its entire length.
When planing, care should be taken not to plane off a strip so wide that it will show.
Take off the inside stops. Pull the weights or the end of the spring balance up as far as they will go and hold them in place by nailing the cord or wire to a hidden spot on the frame. Take out the lower sash.
Remove the left parting bead and take out the upper sash. If either sash is warped or bowed away from the parting bead, use the rabbet plane as mentioned above. You should now cut the weatherstrip groove.
All slots or grooves for series 10UP are 5/32" wide and 7/16" deep and are made on the side of the sash closest to the parting bead. The suggested setting for the groove is 7/16" in from the edge of the sash to the end of the groove. This will leave 9/32" of wood on this edge. It is suggested to try the setting on a scrap piece of wood to make sure the side metal slides freely. Once you have determined this setting, it should not be changed.
For series 10X, the groove is 3/16" wide and ½" deep and ends 17/32" in from the edge leaving 11/32" of wood on this edge.
Start on the upper sash. Groove the left hand side of the sash. Next, groove the sash for the head strip, running the groove in the direction of the side you have already finished. This method will prevent any corner chipping. Next, groove the right hand side. Do the lower sash in the same manner.
You now have to determine where you want to make the rabbets for the meeting rail strips. Lower edge: you can see the metal from the outside detail, OR midway between the meeting rail: no metal shows detail. If the optional meeting rail block is used, approximately 5/16" of wood must be cut from each end of the meeting rail to allow for installation of the block on the parting bead.Block detail. Once the rabbets are made, nail on the hook strip ( #7 ) on to the upper sash spacing the nails 1-¼" apart. The end of the hook must be flush with the ends of the meeting rail. Next nail on the flat strip ( #8 or #8C ) to the lower sash in the same manner.
Prepare the upper side strips for installation by cutting out a section for the pulley or sash wire.
Where the side strip meets the head strip, the rib on the side strip is mitered. Spread the miter apart so the rib of the head strip can slide into it. To make fitting easier, the rib on each end of the head strip is squeezed together.(Picture) The lower sides are done in the same manner. Now, put in the head strip and hold it in place while you place the side strip in its place by pushing the miter over the rib of the head strip.(Picture) You can now nail the side strip in place with a nail at the top and bottom and a nail above and below the pulley slot. Hang the sash, then place the upper left side strip in its groove and slide both the sash and the strip into the frame. If packing is required, place it behind the side strip before final nailing. Adjust the side strip miter to fit over the rib of the head strip. Complete nailing the side and head strips. Replace the left parting bead. Place the sill strip in place with a few nails. All sills are sloped toward the outside. This means the rib of the sill strip has to be bent perpendicular to the rib of the side material and also the groove in the bottom of the sash. Simply take a block of wood and hammer along the entire length of the rib to bend it up until the proper fit is achieved. Place the right side mitered strip over the rib of the sill strip and snug against the parting bead. Place one nail at the top and bottom inside edge. Hang the lower sash and left side strip as you did for the upper sash. Place one nail at the top and bottom inside edge of the left side strip. Replace the inside stops leaving about 1/16" clearance between the stop and the sash. After checking the fit, complete the nailing of the sill strip spacing the nails 1-¼" apart.
View Vidio: http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=ELsImfavqF0&feature=endscreen